Most Montrealers are familiar with the historical buildings that line the narrow streets of Old Montréal. Some of us, however, may remember when this area comprised a busy harbour centered on industry, and the St. Lawrence River was invisible, hidden behind rail yards and grimy warehouses. In addition, many of the architectural treasures were in disrepair and covered with grime, some even falling victim to the wrecker’s ball. Fortunately, after decades of restoration, the waterfront has become a green space with many attractions, not the least of which is the river itself.
 Old Montréal is truly a plethora of architectural gems. However, a great place to start a walking tour would be with the crown jewel, Notre-Dame Basilica on Place d’Armes (#1 on map). Constructed in the Gothic Revival style, it dates from 1829. The vast interior reveals intricately carved statues, as well as stained-glass windows, a gilt-encrusted altar, and a heavenly blue ceiling dotted with gold stars. A door to the left of the altar leads to the Sacré-Coeur Chapel built in 1891. After a disastrous fire in 1978, it was rebuilt and is certainly worth a visit. The modern altar made up of separate bronze panels milled in England is breathtaking.
After leaving the Basilica, cross over to the newly renovated Place d’Armes. This is the spot where Paul Chomedey de Maisonneuve, founder of Montréal, allegedly fought the Iroquois. The present monument merits close examination since it not only includes the dashing Maisonneuve on its top, but also statues of Jeanne Mance, Charles le Moyne, an Iroquois native, and Lambert Closse around the base. Panels show the first mass, Maisonneuve killing his enemy, and Dollard des Ormeaux dying at Long Sault. Place d’Armes might just as easily have been called “Bankers’ Square” since it faces the Bank of Montréal, built in 1817. Its domed roof and Corinthian columns are modeled after the Pantheon in Rome.
Just west of the Basilica on Notre- Dame Street is the Old Sulpician Seminary. Built in 1685, it is Montreal’s oldest building and still acts as home to the religious order. Just above the entrance is the Coat of Arms of the Society of St. Sulpice. The public clock on the roof was erected in 1701. Continue walking west along Notre-Dame and turn south down St. François-Xavier Street, stopping at the Centaur Theatre at #453 (#2 on map). In 1903, this imposing building with its tall Corinthian columns housed the Montreal Stock Exchange until 1969. Continue south on St. François- Xavier and turn right on St. Sacrement, stopping at #221. This is the former residence of Michel Eustache Chartier de Lotbinière, a seigneur and a Speaker of the Assembly of Lower Canada. This impressive three-storey home was built in the middle of the 18th century and has several characteristics of a typical French Canadian home, including a steeply gabled roof, dormer windows, stone façade, and “coupe-feu” or firewalls on either side of the roof to prevent fires from spreading from one building to another. At St. Nicolas Street, turn south and stroll down to St. Paul Street, then turn right and continue on to #324, the former residence of René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle, the great explorer of the Mississippi. The former residence is now a charcuterie/boucherie, and a good spot to stop for a coffee. Next, turn left on St. Pierre Street and proceed to Place D’Youville (#3 on map). The Rivière St-Pierre originally flowed here; however, it eventually evolved into an underground sewer, eventually requiring its covering as a street. At #138 St. Pierre Street, you’ll find the Maison Marguerite d’Youville, dating from 1747. This was the original home of Marguerite d’Youville, co-founder of the Grey Nuns religious order and Canada’s first saint. Although fire gutted the original hospital, some of the original stone walls remain.
In 1833, the Marché Ste-Anne, a large public market, opened on Place D’Youville Square with an impressive two-storey building that was taken over by the Parliament of Canada in 1844. Unfortunately, only five years later, the building was burned to the ground by demonstrators opposing the Rebellion Losses Bill. Although the market was later rebuilt, it was demolished in 1901. Interestingly, every August there is a reenactment of the Marché at the Pointe-à- Callière Museum. Old-fashioned stalls manned by vendors in period costumes sell products from yesteryear.
One of the most interesting buildings on Place D’Youville is a Flemish-styled fire station with its tall tower, once used to hang fire hoses. Built in 1903, it now houses a history centre. (Too bad it was not around when the Parliament was torched in 1849!) Don’t miss a chance to enter the old Youville Stables at #298- 300 Youville, now home to a restaurant and offices. “Stables” is actually a misnomer since a horse would have had difficulty passing under the low entry archway. These “stables” were probably used as warehouses for the Grey Nuns. Stroll into the courtyard to view the pulleys that were used to lift merchandise.
As you walk east on Place d’Youville, you’ll come to the Founders’ Obelisk, dedicated to the settlers led by Maisonneuve in 1642. Further along, at the corner of de la Commune Street, is Place Royale. The elegant stone Palladian-style building at its centre was Montreal’s first Customs House. It is now part of the Pointe-à-Callière Archeology Museum located at #350 Place Royale (#4 on map). The Museum’s ultra-modern façade appears to emulate the prow of an ocean liner. Inside, excavations reveal the original foundations of buildings long gone. The Museum not only has interesting exhibitions, but also a restaurant and rooftop deck that affords a spectacular view of the harbour.
This is also an ideal place to pause on our walking tour. Part II in the next issue will take us eastwards to Place Jacques-Cartier and other treasures of the past.
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